UTAH – CALIFORNIA
UTAH – CALIFORNIA
November 13-19
7 days
2500 miles
One week on the other side of US. Both states full with surprises, great attractions and awesome people. I am so happy to get here. Again. In Utah I’ve seen all the national parks, but there is lot more to see. I lived in California for a few months back in 2002, but never seen the entire state. I never seen Yosemite, Kings Canyon and a lots of other interesting sites in this exciting state.
Day 1
I took off November 13th at JFK airport to Salt lake City, where I landed around 9AM. I had to wait to my rental car for about an hour, but finally arrived. I rented a nice InfinityQX60 SUV, from a private owner. I can tell she was the coolest car rental person I ever met. Literally… later you’ll see why.
So as soon as I received the car I left Salt lake city, to Great Basin National Park. I thought it will be a boring park, I did not know what to count for. The name of the park not really exciting, doesn’t cover
anything interesting, I thought its simply the prairie or dessert will I find. But instead, its a whole other world. Unfortunately I couldn’t see the entire park it was closed for the season, the part I was able to drive into was pretty interesting. The sunset gave colors tat you cant see anywhere. The sky was in pink, orange, blue and colors I cant describe. The driving was exciting.
From here I was driving on the loneliest road in America, the US-50 all the way to Fallon, NV where I spent the night. People I talked to were so nice, that is one of the reason I love the south West. Next morning I checked out the city Fallon, before I left to Carlson City.
Day 2
Carlson city is one of those city I wanted to see for years. When I was here Jackie Chan’s words were ringin’ in my head “Is this Carlson City?” from Shanghai Noon. I was driving trough the city, then I left
for Lake Tahoe.
This is another part of U.S. I wanted to see long time. I’ve heard a lots good thing about it, seen photos,videos, it became a bucket list item or lets say a place to see before die. The road to Lake Tahoe is
beautiful already. I always thought Lake Tahoe is in California but I learned a pretty large part is in state of Nevada. When I was driving all around it, I believe the more beautiful part is in Nevada not California
state. I really recommend to everyone to come here and stay if you can. I would probably stay Carlson city if you need hotel, or get a wooden cabin in the forest somewhere. Maybe a nice house by the lake or on the top of the hills so you can see the lake. I was looking for the part of the lake where the big round stones I can see, because I’ve seen it from photos this part of the lake and I liked it very much. So when I arrived to the lake I took 28 north and I stopped where the road was near by the lake. I started to clime down the hill, it wasn’t easy at all, but I climbed down and I was literally forgot to close my mouth from it beauty. This is my second day only, but already worth it the trip for the view I’ve seen here. I spent a couple hours only at this place just to walking up and down by the lake. I did not wanted to leave from here. The calmness, the beauty, the peace you can find here, the freshness of the air combined ‘lets stay here forever’ feeling in my hearth. I fall in love with this place like with a beautiful, sexy , smart woman.Immediately I felt: This is America! At this part of he lake I did not seen any houses, boats, cars, no sins of humans ever stayed here or visited the lake ever. It was pure magic. Back to the past where humans were not exist, nature only. No wonder why I didn’t wanted to leave the lake.
I did not care about the waterfall, I cared about the lake. Honestly I don’t know why its the most famous and most photographed part of the lake because the Nevada side was much more beautiful for me, I guess because the small island in it. Interestingly, there is a house on that small island. Also I was informed by a lady who leaves near by, the owner or ex-owner of that island who built that house on the island, has or had a viking castle by the side of the lake. That island house was built only for tea sippin’ afternoons. She lived in the viking castle. I continued to drive around the lake, until I had to leave the area. On the road I fund a cute little restaurant, near Pioneer, CA called Ham’s Station. (address 34950 Hgwy 88 Pioneer,CA). Originally it was built as a trading post back n 1855 the it was turned into a hotel later on, today its a restaurant and rent able wooden cabins. The restaurant has a large deck so you can suit outside under the sun and fresh air, that what I did. Food is mostly salads, burgers and sandwiches. Food is delicious her,the workers extremely nice. Loved it here, and gladly recommend it to anyone this place. On my way to San Francisco I was driving trough a wine making area. So I stopped for vine stating in McCay cellars in Lockefrod, CA. I choose the red vine selection and set down. The waitress brought me the vine one by one. Explained the vine and I just enjoyed the friendly room, and the good vine. Of cores I purchased two bottle of it. But like everything good must be over, this is had to be over too as soon as ran out of the vine.So I had to continue driving to San Francisco, where Ive arrived at late evening this day.
Day3
San Fransisco. The city that always beautiful. Love being here. This is only my second time in the city,and there is a lot to explore. I started with Alcatraz. I’ve been to the island once, I’m not a big fan of old
jails, but the only reason I returned because I lost all my photos and videos I made here due to crashing Iphone. Some reason my phone did not turned back on anymore, and only way to fix it is reload the
software so I would loose everything that’s on my phone. Whats a shame from Iphone that I can’t remove any memory card from it. So I had to return to make new photos and videos. Also I learned new thing about the island, so its worth the money and the time.
The Alcatraz. I’ve seen movies about the jail here, probably non of them was shot here. Hollywood always forget the truth once its comes to historical event. Anyway, got on the boat, I walked to second
level port side. You can see the island from distance, and when you getting close you see its gloomy monument of the past. When you dock, you see the Indian signs all over the buildings like “Indians
Welcome’ or, “Indian Land” “United INDIAN property” and so on… Those sings made by Indians whom occupied the island illegally between 1969 and 1971. the reason was these Indians claimed that, under the Treaty of Fort Laramie between US and Lakota tribe, all retired, abounded, or out-of-use federal land was to be returned to the Indians who once occupied it. So in this case the Alcatraz was closed its gates 1963 march 21, and the Red Power activists felt that the island qualified for a reclamation by Indians. It did not ended well. The occupation of Alcatraz a brief effect on federal Indian termination policies and established a percent for Indian activism. Oakes was shot to death in 1972, and the American Indian Movement was targeted by the federal government and the FBI in COINTELPRO operation.Interestingly, not only the Indians, but many famous Hollywood stars showed their respects toward the natives. Jim Thope’s daughter was one of the occupiers, and helped convince celebrities like Jane Fonda,Anthony Quinn, Marlon Brando, Jonathan Winters, so son and so on to visit the island to support the occupation. Jim Thorpe supplied generator, ambulance service, water barge t the island. Rock band like Creedence Clearwater Revival supported $15000 (today its about a $100 000).
Entering the Building, is the most interesting part. I entered at the shower area. Not nice. Can’t imagine Al Capone showering here, but he actually did. Not only him, but Alvin Karpis, Machine Gun Kelly and so on. Walking to the cell area, I started in the back instead on the front so I could make photos that nobody is in the way. I walked to the cell of Frank Morris, John and Clarence Anglin, the famous escapers, they never captured. The Anglin brothers moved to Brazil Morris never been found anywhere.
INSIDE ALCATRAZ
After the Alcatraz I walked to the Pier 39. the road was taking me trough the Fisherman’s Wharf area, but I liked the pier 39 way more. Had a lunch at Pier Market, and I had a Mango beer which was so good I had to order another one. If I knew I didn’t have to drive I would order another one, but instead I left for a coffee at Illy, which is literally the best coffee in U.S. I just learned here the founder of Illy was not
Italian, but a Hungarian immigrant who moved to Italy and started his business there. The girl who made my coffee was so nice and passionate about coffee making, she could be the best coffee maker in the city.Behind the pier 39 is the docks where the seals resting. I was watching them for a while and left for the cable car ride.
PIER 39
The city most popular attraction is probably the cable car after Alcatraz. It fun, its unique and its out there. You can see the city from it, and you cant travel one place to another. So I looked it up which line
is the best and where should I see on the car. A nice German steward set right next to me, we talked wile we enjoyed the ride. The seat looking out not forward, and no door and anything that would provide
safety. You can stand or seat its up to you. Its wide open its freedom style. Makes San Francisco unique.
The car goes up and down on hills and you can smell the burning pine wood that they using fro brakes. I rode the Powell-Hyde line this is the most exciting trip you can get on this cars. On the way back I got off
Lombard street, the street where is no straight way it’s all about turns, in one single block has eight turns,and its claimed the “the crookedest street in the world” and its receiving 2 million visitors a year, or
17000 visitors on a busy summer Saturday or Sunday.
THE LOMBARD STREET
From here I walked back to my car, so I could drive to Golden Gate. About 4 pm I reached the car but someone broke my window and stole 4 smaller bags of clothes and food. The people who seen tit called the police. They came an hour later I was told by the time the robbers came back and stole another two bags, before the police arrived. The girl who lived in the building I parked she told me I can park in her yard use her parking spot, just don’t tell no one in the building. Across the street the Chinese mechanic explained everything and talked to the police when I called them back. The bar right next to the mechanic let me sit inside and use the bathroom, and did not accept money for my drink, so I can say the people here in San Francisco so nice, hardly can find friendlier people in the states. Maybe in Alaska, but that another story.
THE BROKEN CAR
I knew the police wont do anything I just felt sorry for the car and its owner. I had to call her and tell her the truth. She already was ticketed at the airport Salt Lake City because she gave me the car at the private car garage not the car rental garage. Now I have to explain myself. I called her but she was not anger or ad about the only worried about me… well I have to say its not the east side.
So I was put a plastic onto the back window and drove to golden gate. I parked on the San Francisco site and walk on the bridge. The bridge was covered in clouds, it was beautiful. Then I got into the var and
drove over the bridge and parked the other side. By the time it was so cold I did not wish to walk over the bridge. So I call the day and left San Francisco
day 4
I woke up, check out and got into the car. I was driving to Sequoia NP. The road was taking me at the Kaweah Marina, Lemon valley, and over the Kaweah river, near Sequoia NP which is really beautiful
river.
KAWEAH
When I arrived to Sequioa National Park, I stopped in the visitor center. I recommend for everyone. So here I was informed, that most of Sequoia Park was closed due to wildfire, that usually start September –October. I was able to driver in to the park for a while. First I stopped at a big rock that just by the side of the road. The road use to go right under it, but they changed it. Probably everyone wanted to take a photo with it and they stopped the traffic. that’s makes sense.
From here, I continued to hiked the area where the natives believed that is a healing spot and their hand painting are still visible on the rocks that looked like split in half. It was a secret place of many Indian nations, they came here and stayed here in peace. They believed they can get healed here. I believe there was a magical place back then
THE INDIAN PLACE
Also from here not too far is a beautiful stream, that worth to hike down to. I could spend an entire day here…
THE STREAM
… but I knew I had to go to Kings Canyon to see some sequoia trees, because that park has a section,where these monster pines grows. So I have turned back and about an hour and half I was in Kings Canyon National Park for the first time.
KINGS CANYON
Here you can find a dead, fallen Sequoia tree, that is empty in the inside, its just laying n the ground like an empty shell. Actually it is an empty shell of an old tree, but its absolutely not useless, it gave shelter for the parks early visitors, and construction workers. People were sleeping in a bed inside the hollow log.The Calvary kept heir horses in it. Hows that possible? After they fall, sequoias endure. These trees resist decay, sometimes lasting for hundreds or even thousands of years on the forest floor. This Monarch I walked in to, in 1900 looked almost exactly the same as today.
THE DEAD SEQUIOA TREE
Inside a seqoia tree
About two minutes walking from here you can find the Gamlin Cabin. This cabin was built 1872 by Israel Gamlin who quartered here till 1878 while grazing cattle in the mountains. After general Grant National Park was established in 1890 the cabin was used as a storage house by the U.S. Calvary who patrolled the park until 1913. Later it became the quarters of the first park ranger stationed here.
Yosemite waterfall video
On the way to Dunlap on the Kings Canyon Road I was traveling above the clouds. I experienced something similar on Hawaii. It was beautiful.Same day I was driving to Yosemite, and I found a nice cozy motel in Mariposa, where I spent the night.
Day 5
I was heading early morning to Yosemite NP. This is my first time in the park, and I was expecting a lot of beauty from this park. I was driving into Yosemite and you can see huge rock both side of the road.These rocks so elegant, and spectacular, cant just drive by. I had to stop to see, so I parked at the place where President Theodore Roosevelt sat with John Muir 1903 during his visitation. spending some times here, filled with fresh air, lots of energy and happiness, continued my journey more into the valley. My next stop was the Bridalveil falls. This is a 620 foot tall fall that inspires painters and photographers, and way before, story tellers. The first people of this valley the Ahwahneechee people called this fall Po-ho-no or “puffing wind”. To them this was a place of foreboding where evil spirit s resided. The Euro-Americans renamed it Bridalveil Fall because of the veil/like effect when wind tosses the waterfall in the air. Modern folklore suggest that if you walk to the base of the fall with your loved one you may soon be wed. As I’m standing by watching the waterfall play in the wind, a coyote were walking by. Sniffing around here and there and she walked toward the tall grass, like I good puppy.
Fire in Yosemite
My favorite place in this park is the Valley View. Its like a perfect picture that you edited on photo shop. I couldn’t just stop wonder, how can be a scenery so beautiful, so elegant, so perfectly eye catching. This park is burned into my hearth. Im sure I will come back soon. I need to show this to my family, to everyone I know. So far this was the most beautiful part of California Ive ever seen and thanks to president Roosevelt and john Muir to save us this place so generation after generation were able to see it,and I was able to see it.
VALLEY VIEW
I did not want but I had to leave Yosemite, if I wanted to success my travel. So I headed to Reno, NV.
The city seen better days I can tell. I was here about 20 years ago.
Day 6
On the way back to Salt Lake City I have a quick stop somewhere that I believe its magic. The place is in the Great Salk Lake Desert, lost of fast cars, and wide open place. Its the Bonneville Salt Flats. This time
of the year its a salt wetland, but that is give you the magic. Looks like the sky and land touches each other. Walking in the shallow water looks like you walking in the sky, and sky under your feet and sky
above your head, its just different from everything I ever experienced. About 30 minutes stop is enough watch unless you want to walk in it.
Bonneville video
BONNEVILLE SALT FLATS
Instead of check int o the hotel and enjoy salt lake city I wanted to see one more place in Utah, that made me wonder for long time. Because I like history I like the old west, I always wanted to see this place. The
Golden Spike National Historical Park. On the way here you can see historical signs of the abounded work sites, I stopped by and took some photos, think about it, that hundred years ago people worked here whom not exists anymore, enjoyed the scenery, think about the natives, and the nature.For thousand of years buffaloes roamed this land, and the herds were so massive, they shook the ground sounded like thunder in the distance. The population of the buffaloes in 19th
century is estimated to about 30 million to 60 million.
Hundred of thousands of them were slaughtered by hunters, travelers and U.S troops. They where killed in so large scales naturalist estimated less than 1000 bison remained by the middle of the century. The train companies advertised that you can hunt from the train, and the record was a single man in just 40 minutes killed 120 buffalo. And the hunt was only stopped because the guns where too hot. By the late 1880’s the endless herds of bison were wiped out and juts a few hundred individuals remained. Near extinction of the majestic animal deprived the Plains Indians of their live hood and resulted in tremendous suffering. The last remaining bison were protected in Yellowstone National Park. The bison population
are slowly recovering. And continued the road. At the Golden spike, in the visitor center you can learn a lot about the rail road and this time, that changed America forever. Also there is a beautiful movie about
the construction of the rail road, about the buffalo and the way the Indians seen the entire century. Its sad,but its makes you feel, you came in with your knowledge but you leave way more richer than as you arrived.
On May 10, 1869 four precious metal spikes were placed into a pre-drilled hole in a polished laurelwood tie ceremoniously completing the first transcontinental railroad. Of cores these spikes were removed and replaced with a regular tie.
Unfortunately they removed the two locomotives that usually stays here, they winterized already in a garage.
Here you can go fro auto tours to learn more about the railroad but I chose not too. I drove back to the capital of the Mormons.
I check into my hotel, I washed my car inside and outside, and got some pizza to eat before I went to bed.
Day 7
Basically this is the day to travel back to New York City. Nothing else really happened on this day.
I drove about 2500 miles, spent good 6 days on the road, experienced some new things, explored three new national parks, and learned a lot about history, nature and about people. It was a good trip.